Shiroumadake 2932m to Hakubayari Onsen is an intermediate two-day traverse on the Hakuba ridgeline. It’s a beautiful route with the iconic white peak always in view and an amazing outdoor hot spring at Hakubayari.
The route described here starts at Tsugaike ropeway and is easier and more scenic than the often closed snowvalley daisekkei.
⏲︎ Time: 14-15h
✎ Kanji: 白馬岳
⚲ Location: Nagano
↔ Distance: 22km
✮ Difficulty: Intermediate
ᨒ Elevation Gain: 2000m
☀ Multiday
☉ Hiking Season: mid July
to mid October
Access
Car
Park at the Happo visitor center. From there take the alpico bus to Tsugaike Kogen.
Public Transportation
Take the train to Hakuba station and then change to the bus to Tsugaike Kogen
Buy your tickets on the bus with cash or card
Youll finish the hike at Sarukura (猿倉) and then have to take the bus back to the happo visitor center/Hakuba Station.
Buy your ticket on the bus, cash only
(No IC cards on Hakuba busses)
The ropeway costs 2000¥ for the one way ticket.
Trail description
Day 1: 2h, 4.3km, 640m elevation gain (Yamap estimate: 3h)
Start from the Tsugaike Gondola.
You have to take a small ski gondola first. Stay seated past the middle station and get off at the “second” stop at the top. Then it’s a short walk to the big ropeway, which goes all the way to the top.
Once you get out walk towards Tsugaike Sanso and the visitor center. There are toilets and food here.
If you have extra time you can also explore the Tsugaike Nature Garden for an extra fee.
The trailhead to Oike is next to the visitor center. The first section of the trail goes through the forest, then through a small marsh on boardwalks and then onto big boulders and up to the ridge.
You have a short section across the ridge and then you can already see Oike (meaning big pond) on the other side. Walk around the lake on another boulder field and you arrive at Oike sanso. Oike Sanso makes a good stop for the first night and allows a later start.
Make sure to take the ropeway by 12pm latest to allow enough time to get to the hut by 3-4pm.
Day 2: 6.5h, 11.7km, 1168m elevation gain (Yamap estimate: 8h)
Start early to see the sunrise from the ridge. Since Oike is in a natural “dip” you won’t be able to see the runrise from the hut.
The ridge is steep but not technically difficult and the trail is easy to spot.
It’s also not exposed making this hike a good choice for people afraid of heights.
Follow the ridge until you get to Shirouma and just after the peak is Hakuba sanso, which makes for a great second breakfast stop. They have a very scenic restaurant overlooking Shakushi and Hakubayari and serve cakes, coffee (and from 11am lunch)
After Shirouma you have two more peaks to climb. Shakushi is a steep scramble on loose, small rock. Hakubayari is equally as steep but the trail is easier and more solid rock. If you go in July this area will have lots of wildflowers and is very green.
The last part of the day is to Hakubayari Onsen and a steep descent. The section before the hut is especially steep and you’ll need your hands to climb in a river with the help of chains. (Watch out for the yellow signs telling you to put away your poles)
Once you get to the hut you can enjoy the big mixed hot spring and relax for the rest of the day.
Day 3: 2:50h, 5.8km, 940m elevation down (Yamap estimate: 3:30h)
It’s a short day back to Sarukura. Just like before the beginning is quite steep and hiking poles will help on the loose ground.
If you go in July there might still be snow valleys left and spikes are a good idea.
Once you get to Sarukura you can have lunch and wait for the bus (3 departures, check the schedule linked above) or take a taxi. On busy days there might be one waiting, or you can ask the hut for help.
Accomodation
Tsugaike Huette: Only hut, no tents
Oike Sanso: Hut & Tent
Hakuba Sanso: Only hut, no tents
Hakubayari Sanso: Hut & Tent
All huts are managed by Hakubakan and cost the same. 15.000¥ incl 2 meals. Tents are 4000¥ (2000¥ per tent and 2000¥ per person)
Reservations are required for both hut and tent and there is a 2000¥ fee if you show up without reservation (+ the risk they don’t have space for you)
Extra Info for this hike
It’s ok to use a bathing suit at Hakubayari onsen (especially as a woman) but expect the Japanese guys around you to be naked.
Oike sanso uses purification chemicals to make the water potable. If you mind the taste you’ll have to either bring a filter or buy bottled water.
An alternative trail for Shirouma is through the Daisekkei (large snowvalley), but it’s often closed due to large crevasses. The route described here is more scenic and the best alternative.
Hi! I was wondering if you stayed in the huts or brought your own tent?