Hakuba Traverse (Nagano)

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The Hakuba Traverse is a breathtaking five-day journey along the Hakuba ridgeline, often regarded as Japan’s most scenic multi-day hike. Along the way, you’ll summit Shirouma, Karamatsu, Goryu, and Kashimayari, while also tackling two challenging knife-edge ridges. This route is both demanding and deeply rewarding, offering stunning alpine scenery throughout. Due to lingering snow, the best time to hike is from mid-July to mid-October.

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⏲︎	Time: 5 - 6 days
✎	Kanji: 白馬縦走
⚲ 	Location: Nagano
↔	Distance: 37.6km
✮	Difficulty: Difficult
ᨒ	Elevation Gain: 4240m
☀	Multiday
☉	Hiking Season: mid July 
	to mid October
  

Access

Public Transportation

Take the train to Hakuba station and then change to the bus to Tsugaike Kogen.

Buy your tickets on the bus with cash or card.

Alpico bus to Tsugaike

The Tsugaike ropeway costs 2000¥ for the one way ticket.

You'll finish the hike at Ogizawa and can then continue onward either by direct bus to Tokyo or Omachi station.

Car

Park at the Happo visitor center. From there take the alpico bus to Tsugaike Kogen. You’ll have to take public transportation from Ogizawa back to Hakuba station and then a bus back to the visitor center. Since this is a long traverse it’s best hiked with public transportation to avoid having to get back to your car.

Trail description

Day 1: 2h, 4.3km, 640m elevation gain

Start at the Tsugaike Gondola. First, take the small ski gondola—stay seated past the middle station and get off at the final stop at the top. From there, it’s a short walk to the Tsugaike Ropeway, which takes you up to the alpine zone.

Once you arrive, head toward Tsugaike Sanso and the visitor center, where you’ll find toilets and food options. If you have extra time, you can explore the Tsugaike Nature Garden for an additional fee.

The trailhead to Hakuba Oike is next to the visitor center. The route starts with a forested section, followed by a marshy area with boardwalks, before opening up to boulder fields leading up to the ridgeline.

After a short ridge walk, you’ll get your first view of Hakuba Oike (meaning “big pond”) on the other side. A final stretch across another boulder field brings you to Oike Sanso, a good hut for the first night, allowing for a later start to the traverse.

Make sure to take the ropeway by 12:00 pm at the latest to reach the hut by 3:00–4:00 pm.

Day 2: 6h, 10km, 1162m elevation gain

Start early to catch the sunrise from the ridge. Since Oike sits in a natural dip, the sunrise isn’t visible from the hut.

The initial climb up to the ridge is steep but not technically difficult, with a well-defined trail. It’s also not exposed, so hiking in the dark to reach the ridge by sunrise is no problem.

Follow the ridge to the summit of Shirouma. Just beyond the peak, you’ll reach Hakuba Sanso, a great spot for a second breakfast. The hut has a scenic restaurant overlooking Shakushi and Hakubayari, serving cakes and coffee, with lunch available from 11 am.

After Shirouma, you’ll tackle two more peaks. Shakushi is a steep scramble on loose rock, while Hakubayari, though equally steep, has a more stable and well-defined trail. If you’re hiking in July, expect lush greenery and an abundance of wildflowers in this area.

The final stretch leads to Tengu Sanso. Follow the ridge until you spot the hut on your left. Note that the well water at Tengu Sanso is not filtered—be sure to boil it or bring a filter.

Day 3: 6:30h, 7.6km, 910m elevation gain, 1130m elevation down

Today will be much more challenging as you navigate Kaerazu Kiretto, the infamous “ridge of no return.” This section requires the use of chains and handholds to traverse exposed and technical terrain.

The ridgeline leading to Karamatsu constantly ascends and descends, with some sections dangerously exposed. You’ll need to support your weight on chains and climb over sheer drop-offs. Traffic can be an issue on weekends, as many hikers move cautiously through this area.

Expect about four hours to reach the summit of Karamatsu. From here, the trail becomes much busier, as Karamatsu is a popular and relatively easy day hike.

Descend to Karamatsu Sanso, a great spot for an early lunch. Afterward, continue along the ridge for another 2.5 hours to Goryu Sanso, where you’ll spend your third night.

Day 4: 8:30h, 8km, 1100m elevation, 1180m elevation down

Start very early today, as it’s a long and demanding hike. You can ask the hut to pack your breakfast as a bento and enjoy it while watching the sunrise from the summit of Goryu. The hike to the peak takes about an hour—don’t forget your headlamp.

After summiting Goryu, continue along the ridge toward Kashimayari. The trail descends steeply along the ridgeline, offering stunning views of Kashimayari. While the terrain is challenging, it’s not highly exposed. After about three hours, you’ll reach Kiretto-goya, where the ascent begins again along Hachimine Kiretto, your next knife-edge ridge. This section has chains, and you’ll need to use your hands to climb the steeper parts.

Compared to Kaerazu Kiretto, Hachimine Kiretto is less exposed and intimidating, but you’ll still face sections requiring careful climbing with chains and ladders.

The climb to the summit of Kashimayari takes about two hours. From there, it’s a final two-hour descent to Tsumetaike Sanso. This last section is steep but no longer technical or exposed.

Day 5: 5:00h, 7.7km, 400m elevation gain, 1480m elevation down

On your last day, you’ll have a short climb to the summit of Jiigatake before beginning the descent to Ogizawa. After about two hours, you’ll pass Taneike Sanso, a hut famous for its pizza. Sales start around 10 am, so if the timing works with your onward travel, this makes for a great early lunch stop.

From Taneike Sanso, it’s another three hours to Ogizawa, marking the end of the traverse.

Once in Ogizawa, you can take public transportation to your next destination. If you’re not ready to leave the mountains just yet, consider taking the Tateyama Alpine Route to Murodo and adding one final famous peak to your journey. Murodo’s mountain huts also have onsen, offering the perfect chance for a well-earned soak and your first proper shower in days.

Accomodation

Oike Sanso: Hut 15.000Y incl. 2 meals; Tent 2000Y per person and 2000Y per tent

Tengusanso: Hut 15.000Y incl. 2 meals; Tent 2000Y per person and 2000Y per tent

Goryusanso: Hut 15.000Yincl. 2 meals; Tent 2000Y per person and 2000Y per tent

Tsumetaike Sanso: Hut 13.100 -14.100Y incl. 2 meals; Tent 2000Y per person

Huts you’ll pass on the traverse:

Tsugaike Huette: Only hut 15.000Y incl 2 meals.

Hakuba Sanso: Only hut 15.000Y incl. meals

Karamatsu Sanso: Hut 15.000Yincl. 2 meals; Tent 2000Y per person and 2000Y per tent

Kirettogoya: Only hut 16.000Y incl. meals

Taneike Sanso: Hut 13.100 -14.100Y incl. 2 meals; Tent 2000Y per person

All huts require advance reservation. Especially on weekends and holidays they tend to book out months in advance.

There is a 3000¥ fee if you show up without reservation (+ the risk they don’t have space for you)

Extra Info:

• Oike Sanso uses purification chemicals to make the water potable. If you don’t like the taste, bring a filter or buy bottled water.

• Tengu Sanso’s well water is drink-at-your-own-risk. We drank it without filtering, but bringing a filter is recommended.

• An alternative starting route is through the Daisekkei (large snow valley), but it’s often closed due to large crevasses. The route described here is more scenic and doesn’t require crampons.

• Bring gloves and a helmet. There are vertical chain sections with rockfall risk.

• This hike includes dangerous sections—ensure you have rescue insurance and the necessary skills for the terrain.

• Due to Hakuba’s proximity to the coast, the weather is often unpredictable, with strong wind and rain. Expect to add an extra day, as five consecutive days of good weather are rare. Climbing the Kirettos in bad conditions is dangerous and not recommended.

• Book your hut reservations early—these huts are popular and fill up months in advance.

Elevation Profile & Map

Gallery